tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61862513522223227292012-01-22T10:49:28.653-08:00New ways of looking at the hobby.Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.comBlogger381100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-43370996949095372702010-04-12T09:15:00.000-07:002010-04-12T09:19:01.812-07:00

These are dioramas, not model railroads, but they show an inventive approach to creating scenery without spending a fortune at the hobby store.ArticleFlickr set

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-58710496554695571152010-03-29T13:26:00.000-07:002010-03-29T13:32:41.471-07:00

They're not as big or well known as Woodland Scenics or the European brands, but AMSI has been making the world's best ground foam for many years. If you're making trees, there's nothing better than this super-fine foam that is available in many colors and blends. Forgive their amateurish Web site.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-15893229361939169272010-01-04T19:12:00.000-08:002010-01-04T19:13:41.362-08:00

This site recently went up, and it's big. Enjoy.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-55533167345857293872009-12-25T13:12:00.000-08:002009-12-25T13:16:11.067-08:00

Anyone interested in an amazing Norwegian prototype for modeling, or just enjoyment? Click here.Do note that this is a huge download, with some technical restrictions. A BitTorrent client is required.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-60070935565854920032009-11-18T13:44:00.000-08:002009-11-18T13:50:39.688-08:00

Great free software for designing your layout.Pros: very easy to use, fast learning curve; built-in template libraries for just about every track manufacturer and scale; free!Cons: built-in templates for structures and scenery are very limited; drawing/graphics limited to polygons or compound curves filled with solid colors

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-88319764633287470432009-09-08T14:24:00.000-07:002009-09-08T14:46:05.118-07:00

Spiral Graphics is offering two free programs that generate seamless tileable textures. If you model with card or paper, or want to print your own texture sheets to cover other materials, you must have these.The first program is the Genetica Viewer, which has a built-in library of textures, including many of interest for structures, floors, roads, etc. Though the free viewer version of Genetica

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-4339069592608405882009-09-01T18:32:00.000-07:002009-09-01T18:35:38.617-07:00

I've been doing this for years, and now it has a name. No interest in car cards and waybills, but want to operate? Read all about BOCR over at Carl Arendt's fabulous micro layout site.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-19992058197939443632009-08-03T15:47:00.000-07:002009-08-03T16:01:22.599-07:00

I like sound a lot. Sound is a big part of the railfanning experience, and it can also be an important part of model railroading, but there are problems.Not that I’m opinionated or anything, but the sound on DCC decoders is just awful. David K. Smith wrote an eloquent piece on this a couple of years back, and I’m going to second and third his motion. There are basically two problems with onboard

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-74932317152464410092009-07-23T09:57:00.000-07:002009-07-23T10:09:23.077-07:00

Here is a short list of electronics vendors that sell items of interest for hobbyists. If nothing else, the sites are fun to browse. Note that I am not financially affiliated with any of these vendors.Deal ExtremeHobby EngineeringGizmo's ZoneAll ElectronicsFuturlecSparkFun

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-17045592120464505472009-04-20T15:53:00.000-07:002009-04-20T15:55:46.399-07:00

I just love learning about cheap and creative approaches to scenery. I recently heard about craft store pot toppers as a much-cheaper-than-Silflor material for vegetation. Neat!

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-22170273447678787372009-04-20T15:34:00.000-07:002009-04-20T15:45:57.621-07:00

I wrote earlier about using yellow LEDs to light structures internally. Having just started construction on a new module, I've decided to apply this technique, and have sorted out some better specifications than the ones I previously posted.The advantage of LEDs is that they are dim enough that, with proper positioning, they won't make the structure walls "glow" in the dark, even if you don't

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-24595751803168569522008-09-16T09:50:00.000-07:002008-09-16T09:56:24.392-07:00

It's often said that incandescent lights on a layout, be they inside your structures or the streetlamp variety, look better and last longer if they are run below their rated voltage, for example running a 12V lamp at 9V. To do that, though, you can't just wire up all the lamps to your accessory power, you generally have to run them off the variable DC output of an extra transformer.I have a nifty

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-60963274836216908952008-08-14T17:51:00.000-07:002008-08-14T17:52:22.659-07:00

These are really something, should be very inspiring for those of you modeling transition-era American cities.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-72190854691494775612008-05-12T10:46:00.001-07:002008-05-12T10:56:53.371-07:00

A discussion group to which I belong recently started talking about building a small layout on an ironing board. I think this is brilliant. A typical ironing board is a bit over four feet long, about a foot wide at the fat end, tapering at the narrow end. In N scale, that's enough space for the narrow end to be a switching headshunt, with enough width at the fat end to include both an Inglenook/

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-22527957253432941082008-04-25T11:29:00.001-07:002008-04-25T11:45:14.546-07:00

I wrote earlier about the myriad uses for microcontrollers on model railroad layouts, and at that time recommended the pricey but easy to use BASIC Stamp by Parallax. It's a great learning system for those who are new to microcontrollers. However, for those who are a bit more comfortable with basic electronics and simple programming, I'd recommend taking a look at the Arduino, in particular their

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-15501306250832552342008-04-11T10:17:00.001-07:002008-04-11T10:26:49.406-07:00

I was recently reminded about the importance of good, clean track. I pulled out an old micro layout, one of the first I built, just to run some trains back and forth ... oops. They just kept stalling, if they ran at all. So I pulled out the trusty Bright Boy and cleaned the track thoroughly. Now they ran OK except for one spot on the layout where there was a small problem with two track ends

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-76897003853118642292008-03-24T11:47:00.000-07:002008-03-24T11:54:20.890-07:00

My thinking has been undergoing a change recently, which seems in line with where much of the hobby is going. Having spent the last couple of years designing, building and selling several smallish layouts, I'm ready to turn my attention toward a layout of my own.So I've been knee-deep in trackplan books, scoping out where in our little apartment would be the ideal place. One thing I've been

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-60629107030430118152008-02-28T12:10:00.000-08:002008-02-28T12:21:47.667-08:00

This also applies to indoor photography in general: stop using flash.A layout with marvelous scenicing, detailing, and weathering turns to instant messy cartoon look under the harsh glare of a flash. Set your camera so the flash is forcibly turned off.If you can, get your layout close to a window and use the natural outdoor light to illuminate it ... or if it's small and lightweight enough, just

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-40798897783107756732008-02-27T12:34:00.000-08:002008-02-28T12:57:52.783-08:00

For roads, lots, and pavement, sandpaper is your friend. You can easily trim it to any size and shape you want, from narrow road to large lot. You can cut it to fit between the rails for street running or grade crossings.Start by selecting a grade of sandpaper suitable to what you're modeling. Fine is good for sidewalks and parking lots, while coarse is better for streets and roads. The extra

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-5545996306599690692008-02-25T14:01:00.000-08:002008-02-25T14:03:19.827-08:00

I promise this is the last one, but I had to include it because it may be the best of the bunch:http://flickr.com/groups/425158@N25/pool/

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-31355317078745172892008-02-22T15:48:00.000-08:002008-02-22T15:49:07.988-08:00

Our hobby is multi-faceted. Ask 100 enthusiasts what they love about it and you're likely to get 100 answers. Here are the hobby's two biggest highlights for me:1.) It requires several disciplines, which appeals to my sometimes short attention span and desire to learn new things. I came to the hobby most interested (and experienced) in electronics, and am now captivated with track planning and

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-64275117945823260602008-02-15T10:14:00.000-08:002008-02-15T10:19:13.215-08:00

This was added since my last post about Flickr, and I couldn't have put together a more appropriate photo pool for model railroaders if I designed it myself. 'Nuff said, just take a look and let the scenery ideas flow:http://flickr.com/groups/559073@N25/pool/

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-25344160207693377262008-02-10T16:34:00.000-08:002008-02-10T16:41:33.992-08:00

When designing small or micro layouts, you can cut down quite a bit of space by getting rid of continuous running and doing, for example, a simple terminus or very small yard. However, consider how versatile the loop is, and how much is sacrificed by its removal.For starters, it's probably our mainline. Trains will usually take a few laps around the loop going from "here" to "there".Secondly, the

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-20219505959014988272008-01-30T18:30:00.000-08:002008-02-10T16:44:33.760-08:00

In a word (two words actually): folding tables. The pre-built kind, which you can get through Amazon and lots of other places. Adhere your pink/blue foam or other subroadbed/scenery base to the tabletop, and you've got an inexpensive and (probably, choose wisely) lightweight layout that folds up when not in use.I've noticed there are some common sizes which seem particularly well suited for N

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-88043985928772436692008-01-16T13:49:00.000-08:002008-01-16T13:59:57.720-08:00

Here's one of those seemingly basic ideas that can turn out to be invaluable. Flickr, the photo indexing and sharing Web site, has interest groups called "Pools" (where many users' photos can be combined and displayed together) which can be a terrific source for model railroad scenery ideas. Here's a few you can check out:http://www.flickr.com/groups/16506306@N00/pool/http://www.flickr.com/groups

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-21751187764008289672008-01-06T17:28:00.000-08:002008-02-10T16:46:09.136-08:00

This works well in HO or N scale ...Start with a piece of scrap corduroy fabric, cut to the desired size of your field. It should be an earth color, tan or brown (or else gold or green). Study a photo of the type of field you're trying to recreate; often the fabric will look right as is ... otherwise:Paint some glue into the "crevices" of the corduroy and sprinkle on some dirt or earth ground

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-33301561458664462162008-01-01T15:45:00.000-08:002008-01-01T15:51:52.712-08:00

I'm doing a design at the moment that incorporates a rather unusual industry: a landscape supply company, the kind with lots of fountains and statuary piled around outside. I was scratching my head trying to think what I would use for all this outside merchandise, and got the answer recently when browsing a craft store: glass or ceramic beads. I will just select the appropriate sizes and shapes,

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-30915795273095310162007-12-20T10:54:00.000-08:002007-12-20T11:04:03.594-08:00

I'm currently designing a new layout, and it's got me thinking about how we approach operations. Most of us fall on a continuum somewhere between the "puzzle" operator and the "spectacle" operator.The "puzzle" operator is interested in realism. He/she likes waybills and timetables, and prefers trains to operate close to prototype, paying rigorous attention to the questions of trains' purposes on

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-53575228467817381122007-12-14T13:29:00.001-08:002007-12-14T13:55:50.799-08:00

Trainplayer is a program that's been around for a while, and I'm admittedly late to the party, but the good thing about coming late is that things tend to be in full swing by the time you arrive.Unlike 3D "virtual model railroading" software such as Microsoft Train Simulator or Auran's Trainz Railroad Simulator, Trainplayer is a decidedly 2D proposition. Specifically, the program starts with a

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-6744321619808880242007-12-11T10:47:00.000-08:002007-12-11T11:36:15.276-08:00

When I design and build layouts, I'm disposed toward the small end of the spectrum, and I think a lot about track plans. Operations dictate a big part of what should be included in a plan.Imagine a simple oval layout; perhaps there are one or two passing sidings, and one or two industry sidings. We also have two sidings representing towns, each with a station/depot and/or a freight house/goods

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-659382500143767412007-12-10T12:37:00.000-08:002007-12-10T12:46:20.684-08:00

I wrote earlier about using pre-stretched art canvas from an art supply store as a baseboard. What if you want to take a frame-and-profile, or "cookie cutter," approach to constructing your base and terrain, and if, like me, you don't like cutting and assembling wood?How about starting with that same sturdy pre-stretched art canvas, and just unstapling and removing the canvas? Instant wood frame.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-52019152375565215922007-12-08T13:00:00.000-08:002007-12-08T14:13:17.427-08:00

Anyone who has attempted to install internal lighting in plastic structures has faced two headaches: the incandescent lamps normally used are bright enough that the structure's walls tend to "glow," and the light also throws into relief the fact that there is nothing inside the building (obviously the latter point is moot for those very few of us who super-detail their structures by placing items

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-76674966424076428212007-12-07T10:01:00.000-08:002007-12-07T10:09:15.854-08:00

When creating ground cover, a lot of people like to use real sand, baseball diamond sand, vermiculite, or other natural sources.My preference is to use the artificially colored sand that is sold at craft stores, and typically used for sand art, sand in bottles, candles, etc. The bright primary colors won't do you much good, but if you stock up on white, gray, a couple of shades of brown, and

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-88852702427104052882007-12-06T10:33:00.000-08:002007-12-06T11:31:33.315-08:00

Microcontrollers are fascinating little devices that have multiple uses for model railroads. I've used them several times -- perhaps in future posts I will drill down to specific how-to's, but for now I'd like to just present a few ideas in hopes of stimulating the creative juices.First, if you've never used a microcontroller, know that they are not nearly as daunting as you might think. A basic

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-38658547922408267352007-12-03T13:50:00.000-08:002007-12-03T13:54:21.788-08:00

PWM control is great on DC layouts, particularly for yards and switching districts. It enables truly slow scale speed operation without hiccups or "instant" starts and stops.This fellow sells a neat little hand held throttle that generates a PWM signal and gets its power for the AC outputs on your transformer. He also shows the complete schematic if you'd like to build it yourself.

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-477762962405802102007-12-03T00:01:00.000-08:002007-12-03T00:17:52.472-08:00

Years ago someone showed me a neat and inexpensive way to plant invisible but highly effective uncoupling magnets under track. I have used this many times in N scale, but HO should work similarly.The ends of Atlas sectional track have a little recess under each rail; when you connect two sections, these form a little rectangle, which in N scale happens to be the perfect size to accept a 1/8"

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-44382796640838857412007-12-02T23:22:00.001-08:002007-12-02T23:34:09.459-08:00

I recently constructed two small layouts using two different alternative baseboards, with good results.The first was a 2' X 3' N scale layout built on a pre-stretched art canvas, obtainable in art supply stores. Overall I was happy with the results; the canvas is lightweight and sturdy, and takes paint and glue really well. Planting trees posed a problem which I overcame by gluing some styrofoam

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6186251352222322729.post-20178847416628566412007-12-02T22:42:00.001-08:002007-12-02T23:34:47.567-08:00

Your terrain is in place, you have your diluted glue, matte medium, or scenic cement (hereafter referred to as “bonding agent”) and you’re ready to apply your first layer of dirt, sand, or ground foam. You sprinkle on some ground cover, then use an eyedropper or spritzer to soak with the bonding agent. You come back a little later, after it’s started to dry, and lo and behold, your soil or

Gabrielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16453758677504751324noreply@blogger.com0